Some thoughts on Gear. I, like most climbers, am a gear junky. You can never have enough. However I don't have unlimited funds to buy the newest best thing every time it comes out. But I have learned what works for me. These clothes always refer to winter mountaineering only. Not summer. And always wear polyester. Remember, cotton kills...
Regarding winter clothing here is what I wear:
Boots - Leather/Synthetic/Plastic blended boot made by Vasque. Plenty warm for the lower 48 and good enough for Rainier a few times.
Socks- I wear one pair of thick wool socks. I have tried 2 pair, or even a very thin liner to help with friction, blisters, and warmth. I have found the best thing for me is one pair only. Gives me room to move my feet and they are not too tight. Circulation is important to keep your toes warm.
Gaiters-Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodile Gaiter.
Pants-I wear a Schoeller soft shell pant made by Cloudveil. They stretch well, are relatively light, warm, and water repellent. Fine in the snow and cold. Not waterproof but I don't climb in the rain. I will bring a light pair of Marmot full side zip pants if rain is in the forecast. Underneath I wear a Mountain Hardwear N2S windproof tight. Light and thin but effective. My legs never get cold.
Mid section-I wear a Golite (windproof) N2S shirt. It never comes off, and if I am always moving it might be the only thing I wear. I also wear an EMS 100 weight polartec fleece vest, and sometimes sweater.
Jackets-I love my jackets the most. I wear a Mammut Extreme Softshell Jacket. It has 2 pockets, 2 arm pockets, pit zips, and a two way zipper. It has everything I need plus. Most importantly it is windproof, and has a hood. The hood can get in the way of my pack, and is sometimes annoying. But the warmth it provides when it is cold is worth the battle. I also wear a Mammut Hardshell when the going gets tough. I wore it on Rainer last year, but it usually stays in my pack. It weighs almost nothing but has all the things a $400 dollar jacket should have. I also carry most of the time my down jacket. I have a 750 down fill jacket from EMS. Incredibly, down is so warm, in the winter I never leave my less than 1lb. pound jacket behind. If you climb in the winter, you must have a down jacket. But if it gets wet, its useless. There are some new polartec insulated jackets that seem almost as warm. And it they get wet they still keep you warm. I dont own one yet.
Climbing Gear/Hardware-I have black diamond trekking poles. They are probably the most important piece of climbing gear I own. They save my knees, and have probably saved my life. Never climb without them. My favorite Ice Axe is the Black Diamond Raven Pro. It weighs 12ozs. and can take a beating. I also have the Black Diamond Venom set. This is what I use when climbing on Rainier, and anywhere I will need two Ice Axes. They perform very well. Not at the standard of an Ice Climbing Axe, but for me more than enough. Crampons are also important. I have Petzl, Black Diamond and Grivel Crampons. One pair of Grivel Crampons is aluminum. Light but not as strong and sturdy as steel. However I have used them to climb many routes in winter including Mt. Hood in winter and they were awesome. For multi days, pitches, and rock stick with steel. I have a Black Diamond Helmet. I don't always wear it when mountaineering, but when ice, rock, or people fall can happen, you will see my orange helmet on my head. Usually under my Mountain Hardwear fleece hat. It is warm, windproof, and hear proof... Its hard to hear with this hat on. I also have ice screws from black diamond I take to Rainier. Usually only 4. Varying sizes. I also swear by pickets. I take 2-4 with me and they have not only kept my tent from flying down the mountain, but belayed me when I didn't think that was possible. I have left a few behind.
Stove-I use the MSR Wisperlite International Stove. White gas stoves are the only thing to use in the mountains when at altitude, and when it is cold. I have a canister stove, but when I am high, and when it is cold it fails me. There are new stoves and techniques to make canister stoves work better at altitude and cold. It has not been worth the hassle for me. I will stick with the white gas stove. It is tricky lighting and using in your vestibule. I haven't mastered that or felt comfortable with that yet....Not sure you ever will!
Sleeping bag-I use a Golite 20 degree bag. That seems like not enough, but has kept me warm in temps way way below zero. I was in a tent though. I also have a 0 bag from REI. Both weigh under 3lbs, and have been more than enough. I would possibly get a -20 bag for winter on Rainier, but otherwise a 0 bag should be enough! I also have a Bivy sac from Outdoor Research that is in my pack every winter climb in make.
Sleeping pad-We use a Thermarest Prolite 4. Nothing better... Stay off the ground and snow and stay warm.
Tent-I have many tents. 7 actually. But my lightest 2 man mountaineering tent is my Mountain Hardware Spire Tent. It took an incredible beating on Rainier last year, and couldn't have performed better. Winds were well above 60 mps, and I am sure much, much more. It bent, it sagged, it creaked, but it kept me and Chase alive for a 3 day storm on Rainier that killed others. I will never forget this 4lb tent. I also have a 8lb Sierra Designs Tiros Tent that is bombproof. I have used it on Rainier and in many winter climbs. It just weighs too much and I don't use it anymore.
GPS- I got lost in Hells Gate in Arizona a few years ago. I immediately got home and bought a GPS. Since then I have owned a few. I can't tell you how important a GPS is now to me. Not only does it track where you are, where you are going, and what you have climbed, it SAVES your life. Last year on Rainier I was stuck in a storm. I knew Chase and I had to leave after a 3 day winter storm in June. But we couldn't see each other, anything near us, up, down, or sideways. We had to trust our GPS to lead us out. It was not fun, but we followed the track back where we had come and we made it out. I will never go into the mountains again without one. I use a Garmin GPS 60cxs. I have all the latest software. I also have a Garmin Forerunner 305. It is great for local small climbs, but the battery goes out in 10 hrs. Don't leave home in the winter without your GPS. It might just save your life.
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